I
arrived in Dhaka in the middle of April, armed with lots of optimism,
romantic memories of unforgettable trips to India and expectations of
much of the same in Bangladesh.
Settling
in was remarkably easy. I had the good fortune to find accommodation
quickly, and within a few days was the proud inhabitant of a spacious
apartment, surrounded by greenery, with tennis courts and swimming pool
just a jump away from the verandah.
The
focus then shifted to shopping. The first few weekends were spent
discovering the markets, handicraft stores, cane shops and so on.
I
was both amazed and disappointed at the goods available in Dhaka. In my
mind, I had expected something like India, with the richness of choice,
colours, fabrics, designs and so was a little deluded.
However,
I was pleasantly surprised that I could buy just about any kind of food
in the shops, including many of the Western ‘goodies’.
When
I arrived at my last posting of North Korea, commonly known as the
"Hermit Kingdom" in 1999, there were only three shops where
foreigners could buy food and other goods. And most of the time they
were empty. When stocked, the shelves would be lined with cans and
packets of foodstuffs with expiry dates ranging across most of the last
decade.
In
wintertime, with temperatures as low as -20 degrees Celsius in the
capital city, and practically no food imports, in an effort to stay
healthy, we all took multi-vitamins. Every six weeks or so, there would
be a rest and recuperation trip to China which was spent buying and
packing food, especially frozen meat and fish, cheese, fresh fruit and
vegetables which could be frozen, and cans of tuna which had not
expired, to take back to Pyongyang. In an effort to stay healthy, much
time was dedicated to acquiring and storing food.
Living
conditions for us privileged people were also much less comfortable than
Bangladesh. We were allocated a government apartment in the
international compound, which inevitably had orange linoleum floors,
faded wallpaper and huge, cold rooms.
The
compound was located very close to the local coal factory, which
guaranteed a sooty layer of grime in the house, and also in our lungs,
at all times. Although our buildings were heated, the systems were so
old and run on electricity, which failed regularly, that it was
impossible to heat the house. The natural habitat for most of us during
the cold winter months was the bedroom, tucked under a warm quilt.
But
perhaps the starkest contrast between North Korea and Bangladesh is that
of the environment, human and otherwise. Within the confines of
Pyongyang, the international residents (all 200 of us) free to move
around the wide, tree-lined avenues, almost devoid of traffic. There
were plenty of clear, uncrowded open spaces to walk, to breathe.
With military guards every 20 metres or so, it was
literally the safest, and inevitably most controlled, place to be, even
late at night. No air pollution, no noise pollution: actually very
little life at all. If you could sum up North Korea in one word, perhaps
monotonous would be the most apt. When trying to describe the hardship
there, many of us coined the term ‘sensory deprivation’.
People dress identically, they move only with a
purpose, and the only mass gatherings to be seen are when the population
is mobilized for some special reason. Contact with foreigners is
forbidden, forcing us to live an isolated life restricted to the very
small international community there. This had its advantages, as it
fostered a very close-knit community amongst the expatriates.
In contrast, Bangladesh is the extreme opposite, an
‘overcharge of the senses’. There are too many colours, too many
people, too much movement and no space. I have forgotten what it feels
like to be in isolation, and indeed would not know where to go in Dhaka
to be alone! It is sometimes impossible to breathe, and of course the
pollution does not help. Life here is definitely more comfortable, in
material terms, and yet I miss the human contact, the closeness of the
international community in Pyongyang. In that sense, Dhaka is a much
more ‘normal’ place, just another big and busy city, where people
get on with their individual lives.
In spite of these contrasts, there is however one
commonality. I look into the eyes of the poor people here, and see
etched in their faces years, even decades of suffering and hardship.
Just like in North Korea.