Fashion for Development: The Work of Bibi Russell

by Satyawati Hanna Nurarif and Tara O’Day

Bibi Russell was born in Chittagong and comes from a well-known family. Her father, although a businessman, devoted much of his life to cultural activities, and he had a great influence in shaping her interest in Bangladeshi culture. Since her childhood, Bibi was exposed to a mixed culture of artists, writers, musicians, and poets. Bibi said, “It was my father who taught me about Bangladesh culture. He also encouraged us to read books, to learn about the outside world, and to appreciate what is living.” Bibi thus became familiar with the work of Tagore and other influential writers.

Unlike her siblings, when she was young Bibi was not academic, and was uncertain about what she wanted to do in life. What she did know was that she liked drawing and arranging flowers. She also enjoyed sewing, which she learned from her mother, who also gave Bibi her first sewing machine. From an early age, Bibi observed the rural village life, watching woman wear their colourful loungis. She could sit for hours and absorb the strong and beautiful colours and distinctive patterns of the fabrics made by the weavers on their handlooms.

Realizing that she was not very interested in school, Bibi’s parents still tried to encourage her confidence, telling her that she was beautiful. But as a child and teenager, Bibi often heard the opposite – that she was not fair enough, and much too tall (5’10”), to be considered beautiful.

After finishing secondary school, Bibi realized that she wanted to study fashion design. As Bangladesh did not have a design school, her parents sponsored her to study in London at the College of Fashion. She was the first Bangladeshi who studied there, and got her BSc degree in Fashion Design in 1975. In college, Bibi studied hard, enjoying the competition and feeling a sense of direction. Bibi modeled her own designs in her graduation show, and was immediately offered modeling assignments.

Bibi worked as one of the leading models for Yves Saint Laurent, Kenzo, Karl Lagerfield and Giorgio Armani for nearly a decade, and she has been featured in top magazines including Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Cosmopolitan.

By 1994, Bibi was ready to return to Dhaka – and to begin working to realize her dream, “I wanted to build a world-wide reputation for the textiles that I remember from my childhood and to promote traditional Bangladeshi fabrics, like Khadi and Jamdani.”

Bibi now works for a cause that is close to her heart: to improve the plight of textile workers in Bangladesh.

Bibi now uses her skills, experience and expertise in the Western fashion industry to help revive the design and production skills of local weavers. Her efforts have resulted in first-class products.

Through her company, Bibi Productions, Bibi provides the initiative, imagination and promotion needed to ensure economic self-sufficiently for Bangladeshi weavers.

Bibi believes that Bangladesh has the productive skills, local materials, and artistic inspiration to produce fabric products of an international, first-class standard. Bibi notes that “It’s about using culture and creativity to eradicate poverty. It is not charity – the people I work with can show their skills to the world with pride.” Presently, she has worked with around 35,000 weavers, which is a one tenth of the weavers in Bangladesh. This is a tremendous achievement – but Bibi aims even higher, and wants to reach at least 50 percent of all weavers I the country.

To promote her campaigns “Fashion for Development” and “Positive Bangladesh”, she blends the artistic energy of the highly skilled weaver with her own creative energy to breathe life back into the weaving industry. She first involved herself with Professor Yunus to support the weavers and now is collaborating with many projects and organizations. These include Grameen Uddog, UBING (Weavers project), Palki International (Weaver’s project), BRAC (Bangladesh Rural Advancement Committee), Proshika Muk (a center for human development), Aranya Crafts Ltd. (Natural dyes and fabrics), and Gono Sashta Kendra (People’s Health Care Centre). These groups are provided with appropriate training and skill development – and with improved production and marketing, incomes are going up. And the lives of women and their children are improving.

Bibi has choreographed and arranged many fashion shows and exhibitions in Bangladesh and Europe, using hand woven cotton and jute fabric. Her first European show was in Paris in February 1996, and was called “Weavers of Bangladesh”, organized together with UNESCO. Her second show was also with UNESCO a year later on “The Colours of Bangladesh”, and was held in Palma de Mallorca, Spain. It was launched and supported by the Queen of Spain. In September 1998, with support from UNESCO and the British Fashion Council, Bibi brought her third show to London, called “Stars of Bangladesh”.

Bibi has received both national and international awards for her work with the artisans and weavers in Bangladesh, and those in India, Africa and Latin America. She has been honoured with an “Honorary Fellowship” of the London Institute (1999), “Women of the Year” by Elle Magazine (1997), and “Entrepreneur Woman of the Year” (1999) by the Foundation of Entrepreneur Women. She has also been highlighted by Asia Week Magazine as “one of the 20 people to watch in the millennium”. UNESCO named her a “Designer for Development”, and UNESCO Special Envoy in 1999 for her unfailing commitment to human dignity, development and the eradication of poverty. This title was replaced by the title “Artist in Peace” in November 2001.

Bibi works hard to achieve her goals: “I have built Bibi Production step by step. I put my whole life savings into it. I do not have collateral. I do not even own a house! My work has provided me with the inner strength, to pursue my dream to give weavers and artisans a way to earn a living with their art.” When visiting villages, she lives as they do, in their simple houses, where she is welcomed with open arms and hearts. This way she can interact closely with local weavers and women, and give them the self-confidence to do better. She can convince those weavers or women who do not think highly of education by telling them, “Education is good for you and for your children.”

Bibi’s message to UNWA readers and to the people of the world is “Believe in the work of craftspeople. Help us to project the beauty of their creation. Give us support to revive the craft industry in Bangladesh and around the world by appreciating their skills and enabling them to have a market for their products. Their art and skills will then continue to flourish. With your support and with the weaver’s art, I will be able to fulfill even better the mission entrusted to me by UNESCO.”

“Through art and design, it is my intention to sensitize and demonstrate the immense skills and expertise of the local artisans, to preserve the heritage, to foster creativity, to provide for employment opportunities, to empower women and to contribute towards the eradication of poverty. This is my commitment.” says Bibi.

© Bibi Productions