Impressive Buddhist Monastery in Bangladesh
Somapuri Mahavihara, or the Great Monastery, at Paharpur in north-west Bangladesh was a renowned intellectual centre until the 12th century. Its layout perfectly adapted to its religious function, this monastery-city represents a unique artistic achievement. With its simple, harmonious lines and its profusion of carved decoration, it influenced Buddhist architecture as far away as Cambodia.
UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site in 1985.
Now in an advanced state of decay, the Vihara complex dates from the 8th century. It is the shape of a large quadrangle, covering 11 hectares, with monks’ cells making up the walls and enclosing a courtyard. From the centre of the courtyard rises the 20-metre high remains of a stupa that dominates the countryside.
The monastery has slightly recessed walls, embellished with terracotta bas-reliefs of rural people and wildlife. The clay tiles are decorative pieces. Some of them depict an animal now extinct, probably a variety of rhinoceros.
Lining the outer perimeter are over 170 small monastic cells, which have a drainage system with outlets to the courtyard, marked by stone gargoyles.
In the courtyard there is an outline of what was a miniature model of the temple and remains of a shrine, refectory and kitchen.
The monastery is thought to have been occupied by Buddhists, Jains and Hindus. This explains the mixture of artwork. The Jains must have constructed the structure with all four walls decorated with stone bas-reliefs of their deities. The Hindus made alterations to the base walls to replace the Buddhist terracotta artwork with sculptural stonework of their own deities and with terracotta artwork depicting themes from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana.
Artifacts discovered at the site include bronze statues and bas-reliefs of the elephant-headed Hindu god Ganesh, statues of the Jain god Manzuri and bronze images of the Buddha.
Also at Paharpur is a small museum that contains domestic and religious objects found during excavations. It gives a good idea of the different cultures that have been at the site.
Paharpur is 56 km north-west of Bogra. The road from Bogra to Paharpur is narrow but sealed all the way and will take 2-1/2 hours.